Now on the construction market tile materials are presented in different variations of colors, textures, sizes. Let’s figure out which ones are most in demand, and what types of tile laying on the floor are used.

Laying tiles on the floor contains a number of nuances, knowing which you will be able to do this work yourself. And I will help you in this.

In this article you will find an answer and to one more question: How to lay tiles on a wooden floor, since the floors in the shown room of 50 x 150 edged boards, covered with a layer of GFB.

The room is an office, the load on the floor is high and the tiles can successfully withstand this load.

Laying of tiles on the floor

Tile laying begins with a choice of tile layout. Tile layout, except for art collections, helps to solve two issues:

How to make a tile trim

In what direction and sequence to lay tiles longitudinally or diagonally, along the seam or as a brick. Longitudinal layout looks in the elongated rooms and the most economical, and brick gets rid of the need to reduce the crosshairs.

The layout is done as follows: a tile or two is laid out on the floor in front of the door, and the variant you like is chosen visually.

With a longitudinal layout is a nuance. The room is not a clear geometry, so the tiles along the wall have to be trimmed, and this trim is not even, like the wall, but the tile joint is still even.

To hide this difference the layout is done so that the seam of the tiles is as far away from the wall as possible.

Installing the first tile

The first tile – the basis for the success of further work. Before you install it, it is necessary to shoot the plane of the floor, and identify elevations.

Perhaps they will be found at the opposite end of the room, often in the corners, and the first tile is laid so that in the future, bringing the laying to the eminence did not have to cut screed, or warp the plane of installation.

That’s why the first tile should be given more time, carefully checking the level, and put it strictly horizontally so that the lower plane of the tile is set above or at the level of the highest point of the screed.

Note that if you require quality and laying on a thin layer of glue, we are talking about 2-3 mm.

If the room is narrow and long, and the tiles are laid longitudinally along the joint, a string of checks is stretched, so that the laying does not go sideways. Leaving a long seam, even a couple of millimeters, hopelessly spoils the look.

The second tile is laid closely to the first, firstly without a cross, and corrected by the ruler on the first tile. At this stage, once again check the level of the laying, and in the further laying it is not used.

The following tiles are laid in the same way. The coincidence of the planes is first controlled with your thumb by sliding it along the seam, feeling where it is below and where it is above, then the ruler in all directions.

Secrets of laying tiles on the floor, all the nuances

The ruler is moved behind you in the process of further laying, and it is a constant control whether there is a gap between it and the tile, or whether it has not increased. There is a tile with a slightly convex surface, and the gap in such cases, a natural thing
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When the plane of the row is derived, the tiles are slightly moved apart and the joint is set crosses.

Crosses are installed only horizontally. In this position, they derive the desired width of the seam, and show the flaws of installation that you have not noticed (who came up with the idea of sticking crosses vertically – I do not know).

First, the end of the tiles in most cases beveled, and the width of the joint will match the width of the cross only if it is installed horizontally.

Secondly, if floor tiler have viewed the misalignment of planes, the cross will show it. The tiles are fixed to each other in the position in which they were laid, and there is no danger that any of them will move on the fresh glue, and the laying will go wrong.

If suddenly it turns out that the first tile was installed with a micro displacement, and the joint began to go to the side, and he will go in this case in geometric progression, then the entire layer installed and fixed with paint can be adjusted, that is, turned in the right direction, and do not spoil any of the joints.

This is the layer I just moved by 3 mm. Further on the painter is used only in some cases to bring the crosshairs together more clearly. When you get a feel for the thickness of the glue and have a knack for applying it, try laying a few tiles at a time.

Laying several tiles at a time makes the process faster and easier, because it’s easier to get a large flat surface out than a small one.

Now about the seams. The seams when laying floor tiles must remain clean. A clogged joint – it’s a bad tone. If excess glue is squeezed into the seam, then immediately remove the tile, and remove the excess.

If there is dodavit slightly, and the glue has already popped into the seam, then take the tile to the side at 1.5 cm. and remove glue from the seam with a finger, then believe the tile in place. After that, and press will not have to and clean the seam is not required, it’s oh how kanitelny.

If immediately after you put another tile there is a lack or excess of glue under it, do not bother trying to fit it into place. It’s easier to lift the tile and adjust the adhesive. It will turn out and faster and neater.

And the last secret is the property of tiles to visually align the plane

I specifically showed this object, although the tiles are cheap, and requirements are not strict, but here are the answers to questions often encountered on forums.

First – installing tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see – there is nothing complicated about this. We ply the boards or plywood with GFB or CBP in two layers and install tiles, just like on the concrete base. The main thing is that the boards do not play.

Second, there were very specific requirements for this floor, the main of which was economy. It was supposed to save on a second layer of GFB and on the consumption of glue.

Given the fact that the building in the 70s and the plank flooring were “Amur waves,” the GFB laid on them accordingly. But despite all of the above, the floors had to get a decent look.

Requirements are requirements, and to put 90 meters of the floor on a curved surface, I spent 16 bags of glue, or 25 kg per 5.5 square meters.

During the acceptance of the floor, walking, bouncing and tapping, shuffling a shoe toe in the crosshairs and aiming an eye along the seam and the plane, the work was rated “excellent”, although I put forward the “third grade is not defective”, and here is the proof, which I show only you:

And so everywhere along the longitudinal plane.

The secret to laying tiles in this case is this: the important thing is that the edge of one tile does not protrude over the edge of the other. You can achieve this by keeping the plane of one direction.

That is, the tiles of one row, in my case the cross row, lie in one plane, but the longitudinal row plays. The edges of the neighboring tiles and the crosshairs are aligned.